Winter in Hong Kong arrives quietly. The temperature drops by a few degrees, humidity eases, and outdoor spaces briefly become more comfortable. In Wan Chai, one of the city’s oldest and most varied districts, this seasonal shift changes how people move and gather. Streets feel less hurried in the evenings, and dining stretches later into the night. It is during this period that a seasonal dining experience returns to The Terrace at Zoku, the contemporary Japanese restaurant at The Hari Hong Kong.
The Terrace is an open air space set within the dense urban fabric of Wan Chai. Surrounded by greenery and anchored by a prominent triple storey living wall, it offers a contrast to the surrounding streets of traffic, trams, and high rise buildings. The setting feels deliberately informal and communal, with tables arranged to encourage shared dining rather than private separation. This layout reflects the nature of the winter dish served here.
At the centre of the experience is Sukiyaki Cheese Fondue, a Japanese Swiss interpretation of a traditional communal meal. A pot of melted cheese, blending Swiss Emmental, Tokachi cheese, and premium sake, is placed in the middle of the table. It is designed for sharing, with diners dipping a range of accompaniments directly into the pot. The format encourages a slower pace of eating and conversation, shaped around the shared use of the dish.
The core accompaniments are vegetarian and include toasted bread, shiitake mushrooms, broccolini, asparagus, cherry tomatoes, Japanese sweet potatoes, taro, and shishito peppers. These are served alongside condiments such as shichimi, wasabi, sesame, and yuzu kosho, allowing diners to adjust flavour and intensity without altering the base dish. Tea or coffee is included as part of the meal, reinforcing the idea of an extended sitting rather than a quick service.
An expanded version of the experience includes additional items from the binchotan grill. These consist of skewers of U.S. prime beef, Kyushu chicken thigh, and Hokkaido scallop. For those who choose to add it, seafood tempura featuring soft shell crab, tiger prawn, and octopus spring rolls is also available. These additions introduce more variety but do not change the central structure of the meal, which remains focused on sharing from a single pot.
Dessert is straightforward and restrained. A matcha layer cake and white chocolate mousse conclude the meal without shifting attention away from the main experience. Beverage options include warmed sake, along with cocktails and champagne, though these are offered as pairings rather than focal points.
The design of Zoku and The Terrace supports the communal approach. Indoors, the restaurant features leather fluted booths, velvet banquettes, marble surfaces, and warm lighting from bubble glass tealights and fringed lampshades. A ceiling of angled timber slats forms origami inspired shapes overhead. Outdoors, lighter fabrics, greenery, and soft lighting create continuity between the interior and exterior spaces. The name Zoku translates to clan in Japanese, a reference reflected in both the layout and the dining format.
Fondue itself has a long history rooted in practicality rather than luxury. Originating in 18th century Switzerland, it developed as a way for families to share preserved food during colder months. While the version served at Zoku differs in ingredients and context, it retains the core idea of communal eating. The Japanese Swiss interpretation reflects the restaurant’s broader identity rather than attempting to replicate a traditional European dish.
The experience is offered seasonally, from early December through to the end of January, on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evenings. Its limited availability aligns with Hong Kong’s brief winter period, when outdoor dining becomes more appealing. In a city where restaurants often prioritise efficiency and turnover, the structure of this meal encourages guests to remain seated longer and engage with those around them.
Wan Chai provides an appropriate setting for this approach. The district combines residential streets, commercial towers, historic buildings, and cultural venues. It is an area shaped by layers of change rather than a single identity. The Terrace reflects this mix by offering an outdoor space that is neither secluded nor exposed, situated within the flow of the neighbourhood rather than apart from it.
Overall, the Sukiyaki Cheese Fondue functions less as a statement dish and more as a seasonal ritual. Its emphasis on sharing, warmth, and duration aligns with the brief shift in climate and pace that winter brings to Hong Kong. Rather than redefining dining in the city, it offers a temporary adjustment to it, one that prioritises presence, conversation, and the simple act of eating together.