It’s a way to express yourself; It is more than just a watch.
Expressing yourself through fashion can be done in many ways, from the suit or dress that you wear, pearing that with the type of shoes, rings and jewellery too. However there is one item that is universal and that is a watch.
With thousands of watch brands in existence, you would think that a simple item designed to tell you the time of day would be rather dull or, at best, a tool you have on you out of necessity. But this couldn’t be further from the truth. Wearing a watch is more than just a way of knowing what time it is; it’s a way to express yourself. This is done through the material used to create the watch case, the dials, and the strap. The global watch market is worth in excess of $92 billion, and according to McKinsey, a U.S.-based consulting firm, the pre-owned luxury watch market was worth $18 billion (£13.5 billion) in 2018. This number is only poised to grow to $30 billion (£22 billion) by 2025.
Founder Maximilian Büsser
With that said, there is one ultra high brand that comes to mind when it comes to truley making a statement, and that is MB and F. Founded in 2005 by Maximilian Büsser, this is a brand elevates watches to new heights using gems, and exotic metals. Now, this isn’t something you you do by just waking up one morning and deciding, ‘I am going to make some expensive watches’, it comes from experience, 15 years worth. Maximilian used his experience worth with other high end brands such as Harry Winston, to create something special, he had a vision of creating 3-D kinetic art by deconstructing traditional watchmaking.
LM FLYING T ALLEGRA
MB&F × BULGARI
There is nothing better than a collaboration between to brands that have fantastic snergy and the Flying T Allegra is a testimante to that.
The headline: This watch features 20 pieces in 18K white gold and 20 pieces in 18K red gold diamond-set cases, with fully diamond-set dial plates, adorned with fine gemstones.
The Flying T brings together two worlds, that art of jewellery making and the mechanical audacity of the watch world. This radical yet precious creation was meant to honor femininity. The name, FlyingT, is a tribute to Max Büsser’s wife, Tiffany. The T also stands for flying Tourbillon. The movement can only be read by its owner, adding a sophisticated touch.
This may seem simple, but it’s different in reality. The movement is built up and down around a central axis. This makes the usually hidden parts of the watch visible in a three-dimensional construction.
The top of the axis has a flying tourbillon set with diamonds and the balance. The hours and minutes dial is set at a 50-degree angle so only the owner can read the time. The case-back shows the sun-shaped oscillating weight. Its gold sandblasted rays rotate on the ruthenium disc above a platinum counterweight.
The 100-hour power reserve is possible because there are fewer gears between the regulating organ and the rotor. The organic movement can be seen under the sapphire crystal dome.
This construction with its feminine design is perfect for Bulgari. The volume of the watch – featuring a case entirely redesigned by Bulgari – is matched by the coloured stones. These gems help to counterbalance the cold precision and micromechanical complexity of this model.Each of the 20 limited edition watches has tourmaline, tsavorite, diamonds, rubellite, amethyst, tanzanite and topaz. The dial entirely paved with snow-set diamonds provides a dazzling backdrop.
In contrast to using only diamonds, Bulgari has always used colored stones. This enables the Maison to create authentic compositions with a gradual process. The goal is to achieve harmony and chromatic power that fits the design of the model. Cut is very important, and Bulgari uses the cabochon cut. This ensures the stone is extremely clear while emphasizing the opulence of the creation.
This partnership is more than just a feminine jewellery watch. It shows two different views of the world that come together in one creative, harmonious design.
The LM FlyingT engine is different from most modern watch movements. It uses a vertical and co-axial approach. This is different from the radial and co-planar approach that most other movements use. The cinematic flying tourbillon is a good example of the rotating escapement. It’s different from other flying tourbillons because it projects past the dial-plate.
Flying tourbillons are only anchored at their base. They don’t have a bridge to stop lateral motion at the top. This makes them less stable. Most flying tourbillons are placed conservatively because of this. Legacy Machine FlyingT breaks free of this need for movement security. It proudly displays its flying tourbillon.
The 50° inclined dial shows the time precisely using conical gears. These gears transfer power between planes better than other choices. The 280-component engine of Legacy Machine FlyingT has a four day (100 hour) power reserve, which is high for MB&F.
LMX STEEL & BRASS
Back in October 2011, MB&F had just launched Legacy Machine N°1. This was the first new addition to the Horological Machines collection. LMX returns to the earliest encounter with the Legacy Machine collection. It utilises the same expression comprising a central flying balance wheel and two dials. Although, everything else is different.
If you’re familiar with MB&F’s first Legacy Machine, you’ll know how LMX works. There are two dials, each with its own display of hours and minutes. The right dial is set by the crown at the 2 o’clock position. The crown at 10 o’clock sets the time of the left dial.The most recent Legacy Machines have both dials tilted at an angle.
At first, Legacy Machines only showed some of the dial plate and sapphire crystal dome. Later models, like LM Perpetual, LM FlyingT, and LM Thunderdome showed more. LMX follows this latter approach. It reveals functional elements like the battle-axe-shaped escapement bridge and gear-train components. Three large wheels are especially visible. Two are set in motion when setting the time on the corresponding time display. The gear at 6 o’clock is the common seconds’ wheel.
The new balance wheel is noteworthy. It’s a 13.4mm behemoth with inertia blocks. This is different from the more traditional screwed balances. It’s more accurate and easier for the watchmaker to regulate. Other refinements include the polished arms of the straight bridges exposed on the dial plate. They’re finished by hand to give them a curved, or bercé, profile.
This machine has an innovative three-dimensional display that shows the engine’s seven days (168 hours) of power reserve. There are two modes of counting down the power reserve. There are two markers placed on opposite sides of a hemisphere; one is positioned next to an arched scale numbered 1 to 7, while the other is next to a scale that shows the days of the week.
This intricate and completely novel interplay of components is given an additional level of complexity by the rotation of the entire power-reserve display itself.This allows wearers to choose their preferred mode of power-reserve indication: by continuing to wind the battle-axe crown even after the power reserve is fully replenished, wearers can adjust the orientation of the indication in order to make the day-of-the-week or numeric scale more visible when LMX is on the wrist. Additionally, the wearer can choose to have the power reserve indication on the dial or on the case back.
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