Label Noir is the Masterpiece Skeleton.

New from Maurice Lacroix and their collaboration with Label Noir is the Masterpiece Skeleton. Thanks to its highly advanced internal mechanism, this model reveals a multitude

of components that are often hidden. Some of the characteristics that Label Noir has played around with include light and shadow, transparency and secrecy, and black and white tones that are contrasted skillfully. The partnership’s fruit, the limited-edition Masterpiece Skeleton Label Noir watch, is evidence of the firm’s brilliance and wisdom.

Label Noir, a Geneva-based watchmaker, collaborated with Franches Montagnes label Maurice Lacroix in 2020. A reworking of the urban-themed AIKON, this first-ever partnership sold out minutes after its launch. Reunited with the watch modification specialist, Maurice Lacroix is looking to repeat their success.

Label Noir has been in business since 2011, and over that period, it has gained a reputation for proficiently reimagining classic patterns in monochrome. The brand’s meticulous use of monochromatic hues has garnered great praise; however, the Genevan firm occasionally incorporates a burst of colour to make people notice.

The creative minds at Maurice Lacroix’s Saignelégier headquarters aren’t the only ones who believe in the power of teamwork and the synergies that come from combining forces. Among Maurice Lacroix’s clients were Monocle, Wallpaper, Stoff, and Schnapps; in fact, he collaborated with them to produce Aikonic Gin! The Masterpiece Skeleton has been given a new appearance by Maurice Lacroix and Label Noir.

The initial skeleton watches were made in the 18th century. Using handsaws and files to remove superfluous metal is the traditional approach to opening a movement. As a result, the motion is stunning, resembling fine filigree. However, on rare occasions, reliability was compromised and undesirable flex emerged due to the removal of material next to critical components such as jewel beds, screws, and the gear train. The in-house movement that Maurice Lacroix established and refined dealt with these potential issues.

The Jura-based company improved the movement design using CAD (Computer Aided Design) by studying the forces acting on each part of the Masterpiece Skeleton. The mainplate and bridges are manufactured using state-of-the-art CNC (Computer Numerical Control) equipment, which ensures a consistent, accurate, and reliable finished calibre.

This contemporary skeleton watch reveals a multitude of often secret components thanks to its hand-wound movement. The keyless works, motion works, and gear train are all available for free exhibition. The open-worked top of the spring barrel allows you to observe the mainspring in operation at various tension levels. By looking closely, one can see the hairspring in action, the screwed balance wheel in oscillation, and the pallet lever connecting with the escape wheel next to 12 o’clock. The Masterpiece Skeleton’s mechanical performance becomes an enthralling spectacle because of Label Noir’s masterful utilisation of clashing tones.

This Manufacture ML134 calibre is decorated with Grand Colimaçon, sand-blasted finishing, and polished-edge bridges, just as previous Masterpiece models—the pinnacle of Maurice Lacroix ownership. The Masterpiece Skeleton Label Noir is hand-assembled in the company’s own workshops after the manufacturing process. Like other Maurice Lacroix timepieces, this one exudes an air of refined Swiss craftsmanship and offers excellent value to the buyer.

Light may illuminate every inside curve of the movement through an exhibition caseback. With its 43 mm diameter and black and anthracite matte DLC coating, the

Masterpiece Skeleton Label Noir boasts a timepiece with plenty of wrist presence. The watch is featured on a black nylon strap with a folding clasp and the M logo in the same colour as the strap.

Stéphane Waser, Managing Director of Maurice Lacroix, remarks, “At Maurice Lacroix, we strive to be inventive in everything we do. Nevertheless, we recognise that, on some occasions, collaborating with other creative individuals can deliver a synergistic outcome.The AIKON Label Noir reimagined our popular urban watch with an interesting use of black and grey hues. All examples of this model promptly sold. On this occasion, we decided to use one of our in-house movements that we designed, developed. We skilfully assemble this movement at our site in Saignelégier.The Masterpiece Skeleton Label Noir is limited to just 288 pieces and, based on its prepossessing appearance, I suspect they will also be quickly snapped up by avid collectors.”