The Expressive Attitude of Today’s Generation.
Stuart Vevers’s vision for Coach’s American legacy as viewed through the prism of teenage counterculture and the expressive attitude of today’s generation continues with the introduction of the brand’s Winter 2024 collection. The collection expands upon the previous season’s work by the house and features layered knits, party attire, and fresh takes on classic American items, all while redefining luxury standards for the time being.
In Winter 2024, the brand revived classic pieces and put them in modern settings, promoting a carefree attitude where conventional ideas of dressing formally and casually start to blend. This continued the theme of the previous autumn, which explored the juxtaposition of American classicism with a youthful, counter-cultural attitude. The collection’s knitwear—including argyle, cable-knit, and intarsia cardigans, sweaters, and leggings— formed its foundation. Plaid pants, boxer shorts, and sweaters and T-shirts with the cartoon and comic book character Popeye, who is shown holding the house’s famous Tabby bag, contrasted with tailored tuxedo coats and long skirts made of tweed and taffeta. The collection also included a variety of leather coats, some with striking designs and eye-catching hues, including pastel blue and metallic gold.
“Our Winter collection is all about exploring the archetypes of the American fashion language and reinterpreting them for today’s generation,” said Vevers. “We’re designing for real people, who are not necessarily in a resort or on a cruise, but moving through the real world. One moment they might be bundled up against the cold, and the next they’re at a holiday party. It’s a spontaneous, care-free way of dressing.”
The Times Square Tabby, which debuted in the Fall 2024 collection, is now being explored in a festive metallic finish in the leathergoods department. Metallic and Glove-tanned leathers, Signature knit versions, and a range of stacked charms steeped in the distinctive and humorous visual language of NewYork City were all used to create the Kisslock Frame bag, a new design that was inspired by an archival shape from 1969. Charms and jewellery included various representations of the Statue of Liberty, taxi taxis, and the city and state that Coach calls home—NewYork—in the form of mugs and teddy bears.
The collection showcased the house’s dedication to minimising its environmental footprint through design research and experimentation. It featured organic cotton T-shirts, denim trousers with new life, and a succession of party skirts made from reused silk taffeta gowns. The house also kept working with regenerative leather, which manifested as a traditional leather bomber jacket on the runway, as part of Vevers’ goal of reimagining craftsmanship from a sustainability perspective.
A lookbook of group and individual pictures shot atYonkers, NewYork’s famous Renaissance Revival home, Alder, served as the collection’s introduction, according to Coach. Several of the lookbook’s models were in Coach’s street-cast presentation this autumn, which introduced many fresh faces to the brand and its community. This ensemble breathed fresh life into the secluded location, embodying a collection that is both uniquely flawed and influenced by Vevers’s goal of reimagining tradition through the eyes of the modern generation.
