Vacheron Constantin: The spirit of Haute Horlogerie
With the introduction of the collection’s first chronographs in 1999, Vacheron Constantin elevated Overseas watches to the status of horological indulgence targeted towards travel and escape. The design of these chronographs changed in 2004 and is now a part of an ongoing exploratory movement. The Manufacture finally opened up new avenues for these iconic watches in 2016 with a collection that featured a revamped aesthetic while maintaining its original, incredibly sporty-chic character. With its distinctive six-sided bezel, self-winding in-house movement, and recognisably visual identity, the Overseas chronograph has effectively blended character and elegance, leaving an unforgettable mark on the Maison’s history.
In keeping with this tradition, the collection now has a new steel “Panda” chronograph with a silver-toned, sunburst satin-finished dial, snailed black counters, a black velvet-finished flange, 18K white gold hour markers, and Super-LumiNova® hands for the hours, minutes, seconds, and counters.
The 1960s watches that were specifically made for motorsports are where the “panda” aesthetic principle first appeared. Along with the graphic movement, the contrast between light and dark makes the watch easier to see and draws attention to the signals that the chronograph function gives. The three interchangeable bracelets and straps on this two-tone outline lend it a distinctive style and a strong personality. They let the person who wears them change their look in a few seconds without using any tools.
“Since their creation more than 20 years ago, Overseas chronographs have always been synonymous with exploration for the Manufacture,” explains Style & Heritage Director Christian Selmoni. “These versatile timepieces combine the spirit of Haute Horlogerie characterising Vacheron Constantin with the refined sporting elegance suggested by the chronograph function. In a way, the Overseas chronographs have always marked, for the Manufacture, a desire for controlled yet subtly disruptive breakthroughs, a desire to explore other watchmaking territories and to experiment with new creative fields.”
The watch’s in-house self-winding Calibre 5200 can be seen through a sapphire caseback. It has a 22K gold oscillating weight with a wind rose on it, which is a symbol of travel and discovery. The movement also has a dual barrel column wheel with a Maltese cross-shaped screw that controls the start, stop, and reset functions of the chronograph. The reliable and accurate mechanism of the chronograph also has a vertical clutch to keep your hand from moving when you start it.
Thanks to the tool-free, interchangeable wristband system that enables the wearer to convert toollessly from a steel bracelet with half-Maltese cross links to a calfskin or black rubber strap, this new clock represents the collection’s adaptable elegance.
Christian Selmoni the Style and Heritage Director shares his thoughts.
What spirit does the new Overseas “panda” chronograph convey?
It is synonymous with exploration by combining Vacheron Constantin’s innate spirit of Haute Horlogerie with the refined sporting elegance suggested by its short-time measurement function. It signals the legitimacy of the sporty elegance concept in Haute Horlogerie.
What are the roots of this new Overseas chronograph?
The Overseas collection was born in 1996 with self-winding models that some regard as heirs to the famous 222 model launched in 1977. Recognisable by its notched six-sided Maltese Cross-shaped bezel and its integrated bracelet with geometrically shaped links, the Overseas has been the quintessential elegant sports watch by Vacheron Constantin since its birth. This new chronograph is its worthy descendant.
The Overseas “panda” chronograph opts for modularity; is this driven by desire to be in tune with the times?
For Vacheron Constantin, Overseas watches express a desire for exploration across all territories: they are elegant, endowed with a strong personality and adaptable to every situation via the interchangeability system. This new model can thus be fitted with a steel bracelet for a casual look, a leather strap for a dressier style, or a black rubber version for sportier wear.
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