Breitling: Wheels & Waves

The two latest models of Breitling's Top Time line were introduced in Biarritz, France, against the backdrop of the Wheels & Waves surf and motorcycling event. When the company's “unconventional chronograph” was originally introduced in the 1960s, it was a daring salute to the independent spirit of the day. The racing chronograph still has a distinct character today and is still all about motorcycles, vintage automobiles, and road trips.

With the debut of the excellent Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01, the two new pieces accelerate the success of Breitling's previous partnerships with Deus Ex Machina and Triumph Motorcycles.

“These co-branded Top Time watches are for those who are as into the mechanics of their watch as they are the mechanics of their motorcycle,” says Breitling CEO Georges Kern. “The Breitling Caliber 01 is a finely tuned engine, created with all the precision and attention to detail that goes into building the perfect bike.”

Following the release of two limited editions that quickly sold out, Breitling and the Australian custom motorbike and surf outfitter Deus Ex Machina have teamed together to create a third Top Time Deus model, which will be added to Breitling's standard lineup.

In contrast to its colourful predecessors, the new piece's monochrome design has a black dial with white triple-register subdials and a tachymeter scale. It functions with either a mesh metal bracelet or a black calfskin leather strap with a racing motif. The red accents on the outside dial and—most strikingly—the lightning-bolt-shaped chronograph hand at the centre of the display are where colour is used to great effect.

The Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01, which has an open sapphire crystal caseback and a red Deus logo in the middle, is the watch's magnificent movement once more.

The British vintage motorcycle brands Triumph and Breitling initially collaborated in 2022. The two companies began working together with the introduction of a Breitling Speed Twin Limited Edition bike and two Top Time Triumph watches, one of which was made accessible to fans and the other of which was offered as 270 numbered pieces for bike owners.

Each watch has a remarkable ice-blue face that was colour-matched to a 1951 Triumph Thunderbird 6T and a rare, blue-dialled Breitling Top Time Ref. 815 from the 1970s.

The Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01 was added to the Top Time Triumph this year, giving it a premium boost and making it a member of Breitling's core collection. The improved mechanism of the movement is now visible thanks to a new open-caseback style. The Breitling and Triumph emblems are located at 12 and 6 o'clock on the dial, which also has a twin-register display with a speed-measuring tachymeter scale. Its eye-catching icy blue hue goes well with either a mesh metal bracelet or a black calfskin leather strap with a racing theme.

Collectors will undoubtedly notice a few nods to earlier Breitling models, such as the retro logo, the mushroom chronograph pushers, and the “Zorro” dial style. The 1960s-era Top Time bowtie pattern, which was given the notorious swashbuckler's mask as its namesake, has been carefully included, utilising a metal brushing method that is only apparent in certain lighting.

If you've been following the Top Time saga, you may recall that Breitling re-released their Top Time Classic Cars line in March using the Breitling Caliber 01. The Breitling 01 treatment is currently being applied to the Top Time Triumph and Deus as well. What, therefore, makes this movement so unique? Breitling's flagship factory caliber, which debuted in 2009, was built from the ground up using more than a century's worth of watchmaking know-how. In terms of both functionality and looks, it has now evolved into the standard for chronograph movements within the industry.

The Caliber 01 has a vertical clutch that offers accurate and smooth performance as well as a column-wheel mechanism, which is the distinguishing feature of high-end mechanical chronograph movements. In comparison to non-manufacturing, the movement maintains its strength for around 70 hours. Its smart modular construction makes cleaning and service simple since it provides access to certain key areas without requiring complete disassembly. Breitling gives a 5-year warranty on its manufactured calibers, compared to a 2-year warranty on non-manufactured calibers, since it is so confident in the calibers' quality. This is a result of the careful quality-control procedures they go through. Accuracy certification from COSC requires 1,000 tests and ten months of production.

Breitling also put its manufacture movements through a 16-year accelerated ageing equivalency that was hard on them. This included shock testing (roughly 60,000 shocks at 500 g), crown testing (more than 100,000 crown winds), winding of the oscillating weight (3,456,000 weight turns), and chronograph-pusher testing (roughly 5,840 start-stop-reset engagements). A Breitling watch may only leave the Chronometrie after passing all of its tests.

“The integration of the Breitling Caliber 01 into the Top Time range shows the emphasis we’re putting on our in-house craftsmanship and expertise,” says Kern. “So stay tuned for future developments from the Breitling Chronometrie. Because this is just the beginning.”

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