JAEGER-LECOULTRE: THE REVERSO SECRET NECKLACE

Women have had a crucial role in shaping the aesthetic of time and the ways in which it is worn ever since clocks were miniaturised to be carried or worn as watches. LeCoultre & Cie, thanks to the foresight of its founder, began making watches for both ladies and men early in the company’s existence, seizing upon the enormous aesthetic and technological possibilities of timepieces that could also be worn as jewels and accessories. The Maison has been at the forefront of fusing the fields of horology and jewellery design for almost a century, producing works that combine the highest levels of technical expertise with innovative and beautiful aesthetics.

Although it was designed with the male polo player in mind, the Reverso quickly made its way into women’s collections following its 1931 introduction. Several of the versions were designed to be converted from their original cordonnet bracelet shape into a brooch, a clip for a purse, or a pendant. In 2023, Jaeger-LeCoultre elevates this tradition of innovation by unveiling a new take on the Reverso in the shape of a stunning piece of fine jewellery—the Reverso Hidden Necklace.

The horizontal gadroons that highlight the case’s rectilinear geometry and the triangular lugs that look like a continuous extension of the case sides have not changed since the Reverso’s introduction in 1931. The Reverso’s iconic status as a result of its unique, harmonious, and highly practical casing dates back to the turn of the century. In fact, the strict adherence to these principles has given Jaeger-LeCoultre a lot of room to experiment while still keeping the watch brand’s signature swivelling case design intact.

The Reverso Hidden Necklace flips the design classic into a long, elegantly feminine sautoir. A lavishly gem-set Reverso is hung from a flexible chain of complex diamond-set links and polished onyx beads, which is a modern take on the original black textile bracelet (cordonnet; literally: fine or little cord) found on Reverso versions in the 1930s. This novel way of wearing a watch is adorned with a touch of class thanks to two pendants made from polished onyx charms.

Secret watches, which consist of a gem-set cover that conceals the dial until the wearer wants to view the time, have a long history among high-jewellery timepieces. The Reverso is a spin on this concept with its rotating casing that hides the time when the watch is flipped around. While the case’s blank metal reverse side was likely intended for functional purposes, it’s also ripe for embellishment with gem-setting, enamelling, or engraving.

The Reverso Hidden Necklace is a gorgeous clock that conceals its reverse side like an intriguing, personal delight when worn with the front dial visible and the case back turned to the back. Art Deco is a major influence on the design. The dial may look backwards to onlookers, but it is really designed that way so that the user can simply bring the watch to her eye level and read the time.

At its factory, Jaeger-LeCoultre is one of the few watchmaking Maisons to have an atelier dedicated to the Métiers Rares® (Rare Handcrafts), where specialists from a variety of related fields work together. This fosters a spirit of mutual aid, cooperation, and inventiveness among the diverse craftspeople.

In homage to the Art Deco inspiration for the Reverso, the back of the case is adorned with white diamonds and black onyx in a geometric design that repeats throughout. Grain-set diamond rows wrap around the curved casing and frame the face. The black onyx and pink gold of the case are offset by white diamonds in the dial’s centre and distinctive brackets at each of the four compass points. Diamonds have been put into each of the chain’s many small links, a laborious operation that calls for a high level of expertise and delicacy. The necklace’s clasp is made of polished onyx, pink gold, and diamonds, and the cordonnet’s triangular portions, which join the cordonnet to the top and bottom of the case, are adorned with diamonds set in pink gold against a black onyx backdrop. The Reverso Hidden Necklace is set with over 3,000 diamonds and took our Métiers Rares® atelier artists over 300 hours to set.

The Reverso Hidden Necklace’s concealed movement is a demonstration of Jaeger-dedication LeCoultre’s to mechanical mastery. The manually-wound Calibre 846 was designed and built by the Manufacture exclusively for the Reverso. It is comprised of 93 individual components and, in line with the company’s commitment to quality, is contoured to fit the watch’s rectangular case.

The Reverso Hidden Necklace is a work of art that harmoniously combines high jewellery, uncommon handiwork, and high-quality watchmaking.

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